Now, if you just want to refresh yourself with a quick swim – or indeed a dive – there’s actually no need to drive all the way to the coast. Close to Duilhac the river Verdouble runs through a small canyon with pools, little waterfalls, and a dam by a ruin, the Moulin de Ribaute. It’s a 20 minute walk and a five minute drive and it’s so worth it.When we went local talent was there in force, jumping off the rocks and into the pools. Dangerous stuff, actually, and really stupid. But those unsettling moments apart (another one was a wasp, or possibly a fly, chasing me to the car) we spent a wonderful few hours there. The red A on the map below marks the spot.

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